Short Reviews: Chez Spencer

Fourteenth at Folsom is the approximate locus of two culinary stars. One is Rainbow Grocery where you can find an amazing collection of exotic and exciting foodstuffs (but no meat or fish!). The other is Chez Spencer which, though it is hidden in a small industrial space on a pretty gritty street, is one of the best French Restaurants in the city. The chef works from an open-hearth kitchen in the middle of the space, and live music comes from the piano near the front windows. The food is classic French, with things like roast squab, rack of lamb, foie gras, and butter, butter everywhere. When it isn't raining, you can sit on the entrance patio under some heaters. Be warned, it is expensive for a place somewhat off the beatten path. Recommended