When you are seated in the former ballroom of the Monaco Hotel you can marvel at the 25' ceiling and imagine a chamber orchestra playing on the balcony, Just don't look at things too hard, as the details in the room are a bit jarring. I couldn't quite figure out what all of the rabbits were about; the wood is clearly 1/8" veneered paneling; and the gigantic amber-glass chandeliers look cheap (plastic?) and out of proportion. However, none of this matters, because the food here is good. A new chef took over in the spring of 2002 and made a big improvement. (As of last 2004 he has just left).
Out front by the bar, there is a "Petite Cafe" (get it?) with an abbreviated menu, which is really outstanding when you need a pick me up after the theater or an especially stressful day at Saks Fifth Avenue. And for dinner, walk back to the "Grand Cafe" and partake of some expertly prepared food from the surprisingly modest selection of dishes on the large (11" x 17") menu. (Modest menus are a good thing in my restaurant universe. No place with an affordable staff can really prepare 100 dishes to top-notch quality). I can personally vouch for the quality of the warm wild mushroom tart with black truffle sabayon, as well as the warm asparagus with sauce gribiche and parmesan. For entrees, try the lamb loin with a mint & mustard crust (!), or the duck breast with braised endive, a port reduction and brandied cherries. (Sabayon: aka. zabaglione, a whipped sauce made from egg yolks, wine and sugar. Gribiche: a sauce made from hard boiled eggs, vinegar, oil, cornichons and herbs.) Grand Cafe also features a daily Plat du Jour each of which is solid French Bistro food. (Examples: Monday, Sole Meuniere, Wednesdays, Blanquette de Veau, Friday, Bouillabaisse). Recommended
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