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November 29, 2005
The Last Winery in the Alphabet
In my collection at least, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht is the last winery alphabetically, but it is the first winery I think of when someone starts talking about consistently amazing wine. Some wines have more imposing reputations, for instance the first growths of Bordeaux. But, has there ever been a Bordeaux first growth that was worth its tariff every vintage? (To be sure, there are folks who wonder about those prices in any vintage).
Zind-Humbrecht has a number of strikes against it in the wine-collector game. Its wines are white, not red, and the wines aren't even made from chardonnay, they are from gewürztraminer and pinot gris. But none of this makes any difference. The wines of Zind-Humbrecht are consistently exquisite, exotic and seemingly extraterrestrial. They are floral, focused, and full. They make me smile and give thanks for living in this world.
Perhaps this perfection comes from the use of bio-dynamique techniques at the estate, and perhaps it comes from the dedication and talent of Oliver Humbrecht. Whatever the secret is, it gives M. Humbrecht a good living, and it makes it necessary for me to find sufficient space in my cellar for my ever growing collection of the tall Alsacian bottles with the gold and yellow labels.
Here are a few notes to get you thinking...
- 2001 Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Heimbourg - France, Alsace, Turckheim, Alsace AOC (11/26/2005)
This wine provides more evidence that they are practicing the Dark Arts at Zind-Humbrecht. How else to explain the other-worldy wines that are consistently produced there? A beautiful and clear pale gold, the wine showed aromas of ripe fruit and spices. It has a sweetness index of 4 (on a scale of 1 to 5) and while it does taste quite sweet, it isn't cloying - there is enough acid to balance it out. The palate is full, lush and oily, a really hedonistic experience. The finish is long and balanced and stays with you for minutes. This is too much for most foods (though it would be perfect for Indian or Thai), but as an aperitif or just something to sip and marvel at, it is unmatched. (92 pts.) - 2000 Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Clos Windsbuhl - France, Alsace, Hunawihr, Alsace AOC (6/17/2004)
An amazing elixar-like wine with a big floral and spicy nose. It has a light gold color, and a oily, rich, big mouth-filling texture with waves of spicy gewurz flavors finishing off slightly sweet. This may be as good as the '98 which got me started collecting these. I wouldn't call it particularly elegant-- it is just simply amazing. Parker suggests that ZH's VTs should be served as an apperitif. Here is a regular bottling that may need the same treatment. (Indian Food/Gewurz blowout at Ajanta). (93 pts.) - 2001 Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim - France, Alsace, Turckheim, Alsace AOC (6/17/2004)
Medium straw color, big attention-getting nose. Very good, just a shade off of the quality of the 2000 Clos Windsbuhl bottling. (Indian Food/Gewurz blowout at Ajanta). (91 pts.) - 1997 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Häuserer - France, Alsace, Wintzenheim, Alsace AOC (6/15/2004)
Medium gold color. Very floral nose with honeysuckle. Slightly off-dry, round mouthfeel and a good finish. Likeable but not remarkable. (89 pts.)
Posted by Paul at November 29, 2005 04:30 AM | Wine Tasting
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