January 2006 Archives

Now there is proof that it exists.

On, of all places, an on-line bulletin board devoted to wine, someone started a thread asking about everyone's favorite old movie. It turns out that the poster's favorite film was from 1982! Since I had been shaving for close to twenty years by then, I didn't think that a film released in 1982 qualified as "old." I added a few films I thought were old, and others started chiming in with suggestions.

Surprisingly, these wine collectors were quite knowledgeable about old films and had remarkably good taste (at least I agreed with a great deal of the suggestions). For no especially good reason, I compiled a list of the suggestions, imposed an arbitrary cut off of 1969 and with some editing, made a list of 100 "old" films that I think are well worth watching. Because there were only 100 slots, some good films had to go. Although the Marx Brothers, Hitchcock, Chaplin, Harold Llyod and Buster Keaton are represented, the list could have easily included more films from each of them.

Here they are in chronological order:

Ame, the new restaurant in the St. Regis Hotel (at 3rd and Mission) is beautiful, elegant, and serves creative and delicious food. The space is very urban, with black columns, white accents and tan walls including elegant understated decoration (except for the art-glass light fixtures which are definitely over the top, though portraying exquisite taste). I believe this place is destined to become a San Francisco classic.

The bar in the St. Regis lobby also run by the Ame staff, oozes class and will quickly become one of the in spots for unwinding after work or other bar-related activities for the well-paid, well-groomed set.

For a starter, I ordered a crudo of fluke with Meyer lemon zest, fleur de sel, and extra virgin olive oil "from Lessino olives." This was a deceptively simple dish, but it was refreshing, and delicious in the best tradition of clean unadorned flavors of both Japanese and Calfornia cuisines

The appetizer of fricassee of Miyugi oysters, leeks and forest mushrooms in sauce beurre blanc was full-flavored, incredibly rich and begged to be consumed to the last drop through discreet swabbing of the plate with the bread.

For an entrée, I had a red wine braised "Wagyu" beef cheek served with sweetbread cutlets and cauliflower puree all finished with a cabernet sauvignon sauce. Though it was excellent, it didn't have the clarity of flavors, nor the freshness of the seafood dishes. When I come back (which will be soon), I think I'll stick to seafood and skip the meat dishes.

The wine list is of moderate length with an eclectic selection, including some excellent offerings of sake. Corkage is a very reasonable $20 per bottle. Highly Recommended. Ame at the St. Regis

It's the time for retrospective postings. Thanks to CellarTracker!.com, this year, the task is easy. It was a very good year.

2001 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stag's Leap District (3/13/2005)
Shafer Hillside Select Dinner (Manresa Restaurant, Los Gatos, California USA): This bottle was brought to the dinner by Elias Fernandez. It showed a big nose of ripe cabernet fruit and chocolate... lots of chocolate. The palate was incredibly unctious and full with chewy mouth-filling texture and tastes of bittersweet chocolate, spice and ripe berries. The wine showed a big, big structure with the alcohol, tannins and acidity all in the right place. A great experience. The table picked this as the best wine to drink in the future. I picked it as one of the best wines I have ever had the privilege to put in my mouth. Elias Fernandez says there have been three perfect years for Hillside Select fruit. 1994, 2001 and 2004! I can hardly wait! (98 pts.)

1996 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stag's Leap District (3/13/2005)
Shafer Hillside Select Dinner (Manresa Restaurant, Los Gatos, California USA): Big nose of black fruit. Great structure, very ripe, long finish, a bittersweet-chocolate monster wine. Group vote for best wine for drinking now. (97 pts.)

1990 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne (12/30/2005)
Pale gold color; big nose of yeasty ripe fruit. Great attack of refreshing acidity with a mousse of a billion bubbles. Long mid palate, turning sweet on the long finish. A great bottle of wine. The best champagne I have ever tasted. (97 pts.)

1945 Sandeman Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (6/1/2005)
Basically unbelievable. Roy Hersh poured around the table and then asked everyone how old they thought the bottle was. I guessed 1994, the fellow next to me guessed 1992, but there were a few folks who went out on a limb and guessed 1977 and perhaps even as old as 1963. No one guessed 1945 or 1950-anything. This was still a deep dark red with just a tiny amount of lightening at the edge. The palate showed a full body with bright acidity and smooth but gripping tannins. I've never before had a wine that I thought might last a very, very, very long time; this one might last forever. Nor, do I think I've ever had ambrosia, but this just might be ambrosia smuggled down from Mt. Olympus as a gift to humanity at the end of World War II. Did I say I was impressed? This will score higher when it is really ready to drink... whenever that is. Thank you, Roy! (97 pts.)

1988 Krug Champagne Brut - France, Champagne (5/3/2005)
Medium gold color, very fine mousse, big attention-getting palate with LOADS of acidity. Sweet ripe finish. A monster wine which (at the time was) the best champagne I've ever tasted. (However, the 1990 Cristal bested it before years end).(97 pts.)

1999 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville (3/19/2005)
Wine Cask Futures Off-line Dinner (Wine Cask, Santa Barbara, CA USA): An inky, dark wine with no signs of age. It has an impressive nose of bittersweet chocolate, brown sugar, and cassis. The palate shows a full body, rich, thick, chewy and extracted, with layered flavors and a long pleasing finish. It's a wine that won't go away once you let it into your nose or put it in your mouth. I don't know if it is worth the asking price, but it is mighty impressive. Will likely improve with more age. (96 pts.)

1988 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (3/13/2005)
Shafer Hillside Select Dinner (Manresa Restaurant, Los Gatos, California USA): Light golden straw color, very subtle nose. Oily and viscous mouth texture very good full body,superb balancing acidity; long finish. A great bottle and a great experience. (96 pts.)

2001 Shafer Port - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stag's Leap District (3/13/2005)
Shafer Hillside Select Dinner (Manresa Restaurant, Los Gatos, California USA): Another gift to the group from Elias Fernandez. Shafer has been making Port since 1986. Why does Shafer make a port? "Because," explained Elias, "I like Port." He told a story where he and Doug excitedly took their first port into John Shafer's office for him to taste. He tasted it, grimaced and said "This is SWEET!" Yes, they explained, it's Port. "You used my grapes to make a sweet wine!!!???, said John. He was not pleased. Eventually, the need was recognized for a Shafer dessert wine at tastings and the project was given a go-ahead. The Shafer port is made from Hillside Select Cabernet grapes and is only sold at the winery. Someone asked Elias why he used HSS grapes. He replied that you have to use best grapes to make the best wine. No arguing with that. The 2001 Shafer port is almost deep black in color, with a wonderful nose and palate that is full of bittersweet chocolate and a deliciously long finish. Great stuff. (96 pts.)

1996 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (5/4/2005)
Bon Voyage Jeff Cassetta (Some Palmers & Etc.) (Fringale Restaurant, San Francisco): Very youthfull in appearance. Nose of spice, pepper and chocolate. The palate is inviting and smooth -- a wine like Marilyn Monroe dressed in black velvet with cleavage, eating bittersweet chocolate. Lush, chewey, good acidic backbone and quite firm but sweet tannins. This is great now and is going to be something quite special with a few more years on it. (95 pts.)

1994 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley (2/16/2005)
Impromptu eBob Offline (Fringale Restaurant, San Francisco USA): Deep and dark red, appearing very youthful. Nose of cedar and ripe fruit. The palate showed great concentration and balance with dark fruits, and a backbone of balancing acidity. Showed a medium-full body on opening and it kept improving with air and time. Tannins were smooth and contributed to the long finish. Obviously quite youthful still with a long life ahead, but a great wine that can be enjoyed right now. (95 pts.)