Paul Galli’s tasting note of the 2002 Varner Amphitheater Chardonnay posted on eBob, said “I defy any Burgophile to pick this as a ringer in a white burgundy tasting. Again, I find that this CA Chard is very MEEEERsault-like.” So, given this enthusiastic challenge, seven seekers after the truth met at Pesce in San Francisco to explore the proposition that New World wines can taste like White Burgundy. Attendees included Jim Varner, Ken Freeman, Dee Hornichek, Slaton Lipscomb, Leonard Maran, Steve Timko, and Paul Homchick.
We selected twelve wines to taste blind. Each attendee knew the wine they had brought and the identity of some of those attending gave strong hints of what they supplied. The wine-master-of-ceremonies announced that there were two French wines in the lineup and ten chardonnays from the New World. Participants were asked to identify the two French wines, and to be prepared to rank their top three wines. There were two flights of six wines.
The first flight impressed everyone with its excellence. The Burgophiles were shocked, as with six great wines before them and the possibility of only two of them being French, the rest must be examples of good New World wines! Comments included: “not an obviously-California wine here,” “all top quality with good acid and balance,” “nothing over oaked.”
Wine “A”
Aromas of fresh ripe chardonnay fruit, pale straw color. Shows a medium-full body, lush and mouth filling with minerality and citrus on the finish. Slightly sweeter (or riper) than one would expect from a French wine, but very impressive in its balance despite its size. Really good acid backbone, long finish. This was my #1 wine of the night, the group #2. Jim Varner guessed (incorrectly) this was his wine. 1st/2nd/3rd place votes: 1/3/0
Wine “B”
Color of pale straw, flinty nose. Medium light body with good acid backbone. Restrained elegance / fine finish. Guessed "Chablis" and so did everyone else. Given the price, an excellent value. My wine #3, group #3. Votes: 2/0/2
Wine “C”
Deep gold color, nose shows obvious age with oxidation and reduction which eventually blew off. Lush mouthfeel, with caramel and nuttiness. Good finish. Probably has seen better days. No one voted this in their top three.
Wine “D”
Medium gold color, medium body with rich mid-palate and restrained use of oak. High acid, but perfectly balanced. No sign of age despite color. Group #4. Votes: 1/0/1
Wine “E”
Light pale straw color, ripe & rich nose of fruit. Palate shows a big & ripe chardonnay, a medium-light body and strong acid backbone. Smooth finish shows citrus and acid. Quite good. (My notes say possible NZ because of ripeness plus big acid) Ken and Jim both mused that this might be French, not having the benefit of the 2nd flight yet. Votes: 0/0/1
Wine “F”
Obviously New World with ripe and rich nose. Light gold color, medium body and well balance acidity Finish shows a touch of sweetness/ripeness. Votes: 1/0/0
The second flight:
Wine “G”
Light gold color, medium body, moderate oak treatment, well balanced, and no overtly obvious aciditiy. Clearly New World, but in a restrained style. Jim Varner pegged this one (see below). Votes: 0/0/1
Wine “H”
Color of pale straw, juicy fruit reminicent of California central coast. A bit of spritz - perhaps trapped CO2 -- shows this is very young. Very ripe but well balanced by zingy, citrusy acid. No oak; tremendous and successful balancing act. Votes: 0/1/1
Wine “I”
Restrained nose, moderate body. Very restrained, obviously aged, but doing well. Nothing really noteworthy, a bit bitter on the finish. Votes: 0/0/0
Wine “J”
Pale gold color, with tropical fruits on the nose. Very ripe fruit with medium body and noticeable oak and some malo creamyness, good finish with a lingering touch of sweetness. (I guessed Freeman, so did Ken Freeman). Votes: 0/0/1
Wine “K”
Not much going on here, closed up. Little nose, medium body and good acidity. Not particularly noteworthy. Votes: 0/0/0
Wine “L”
Pale straw gold color with medium body, smooth malo character and moderate finish. Restrained and elegant style (fruit-backward?) with excellent balance. (everybody said this must be a White Burg). My #2, group #1. Votes: 2/3/0
And the unveiling, please (in order of group preference):
“L” 2002 Varner Chardonnay Spring Ridge Vineyard Ampitheater Block (Santa Cruz Mountains 14% alc.) 1st
“A” 2004 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine (Santa Cruz Mountains 14.6% alc.) 2nd
“B” 2002 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru (12.5% alc.) 3rd
“D” 1999 Stony Hill Chardonnay (Napa Valley 13% alc.) 4th
“F” 2004 Point Concepción Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County 15.1/14.4% alc. [label/actual]) 5th
“H” 2005 Diatom Chardonnay Clos Pepe (Sta. Rita Hills 15.7% alc.) 5th
“J” 2004 Freeman Chardonnay Ryo-fu (Sonoma 14.2% alc.) 6th
“E” 2004 Kumeu River Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard (New Zealand 13.5% alc.) 6th
“G” 2001 Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay Estate Bottled (Santa Cruz Mountains [Table Wine <14%]) 6th
“C” 1992 Forman Chardonnay (Napa Valley 13.8% alc.) 7th
“I” 1994 Hanzell Chardonnay (Sonoma 14.4% alc.) 7th
“K” 2002 Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru (14% alc.) 7th
As you might expect, Jim Varner was pleased by the results. And, with wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains taking the top two spots, this is clearly the USA place to pick up elegant Burgundy-like wines.
The blind format was a success, the food was excellent and since we were there from 6 until 10, everyone obviously enjoyed each other’s company.
Can a New World Chardonnay pass for a White Burgundy? ABSOLUTELY.
