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June 17, 2007

The Parking Lot at Foodie Ground Zero

Fra Mani Sausage being grilled at a Kermit Lynch parking lot eventNorthern California foodies like to think they are at the center of the food universe. Of course! you say... Northern California is home to The French Laundry, a contender for the best restaurant in the world, and the Bay Area is also home to Ron Siegel, the first foreigner to best the Iron Chef—and with a unanimous decision, no less. While this is all correct, it isn't what the true believers have in mind. They mean Chez Panisse (1971), Kermit Lynch Wines (1972), and Acme Bread (1983 - the owner having started as a busboy as Chez Panisse). Everyone who knows, knows that the true center of the food universe is at 1605 San Pablo Avenue, in Berkeley. It is here, arrayed around a small parking lot, that you will find Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, the original location of the Acme Bread Company, and Café Fanny, Alice Waters' casual outpost of Chez Panisse.

Several times during the year, the cars in the parking lot are replaced with tents, benches and chairs, and the Center of the Food Universe becomes the location of (as Paul Bertolli puts it) a "seasonal outdoor Bacchanalia." These events include Oyster Bliss, Provence Day, and a Beajuloais Nouveau celebration. Yesterday the event du Printemps featured the sausages and salumi of Paul Bertolli, celebrating the first year of operation of his new Fra'Mani Handcrafted Salumi company.

Fra Mani sausage and salumi platesFra'Mani Menu at Kermit Lynch EventSaturday's event started under overcast skys, but this didn't dissuade many folks, as there was a block long line when we got there about 11:40. There were two plates being offered (see the picture of the chalked menu to the left & click for a larger version) a Grilled Classic Italian Sausage, and a Grand Salumi Platter. After a 20 minute wait, our foursome ordered two of each of the offered plates and we found a place to sit. Wine was also being offered for $5 per glass, and we tried Prosecco, Barbera, a Toscana, and a wine from Corsica. All went very well with the salumi.

I've been buying Fra'Mani salumi from Cowgirl Creamery in the Ferry Building and had previously tried the Dry Chorizo, Salame Gentile, and Salametto. It was great to be able to try some new things, and if I could find some Salame Toscano, I'd certainly add it to my list of regulars. The grilled fresh Italian sausage was also new to me. It was of the "sweet" rather than "hot" variety, but was still interestingly spicy and yummy. However, if the price of the plate containing a solitary sausage ($12) is any indication of the price of this stuff, I may have to put it in the luxury category and limit its consumption to Columbus Day.

We finished up with some desserts from Cafe Fanny and spent the rest of our visit browsing the wines in Kermit Lynch, and listening to some rockin' New Orleans Barrelhouse Zydeco music provided by Down to the Bone (here is their newest CD). The visit was loads of fun, and certainly was the hot lunch ticket yesterday. If this event is repeated next year, I'll be back.

Posted by Paul at June 17, 2007 03:20 PM | Food & Wine

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