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May 07, 2008
Ten Trend-setting Bay Area Restaurants
Coi: the next step beyond the Chez Panisse straight jacket, Coi uses and showcases top quality local ingredients, but adds that extra touch - cooking with technique. Coi is the only Bay Area restaurant I know of that offers only a tasting menu. The food incorporates some modern molecular techniques, but never to the detriment of gustatory pleasure. Let's call it 'mainstream' molecular cooking.
Ubuntu: Vegetarian places have always been somewhat popular in the Bay Area, but their food has often been hobbled with very simple preparation. Ubuntu showcases highly creative vegetarian cooking that makes you forget they forgot the protein,
Spruce: shows the Bay Area's concern with local and organically grown produce and humanely raised and harvested meats, and does so without compromising deliciousness. At Spruce you can feel sybaritic and virtuous at the same time.
Orson: Small plates, the influence of modern Spanish cooking, and the trend towards merging the lounge and the restaurant are amply illustrated at Orson. And, to use an approprate movie theme, just like Blue Velvet, you may understand it, or not; and you may enjoy it, or not, but it is definitely worth the experience.
Slanted Door: For some obscure reason, Slanted Door is the great San Francisco restaurant that foodies of a certain type love to hate. Slanted Doors shows how a common ethnic cuisine can be transformed into destination dining with top-notch ingredients and a bit of creativity. Folks that dis this place need to go and try the Yellowtail sashimi with crispy shallots and thai basil.
Yoshi's San Francisco: shows that the Japanese cuisine is not all sushi and miso soup, and can be modern and exciting. Unfortunately, the really exciting dishes from the opening menu are now gone, replaced by a dumbed-down menu introduced in mid April 2008. Still, it is the best modern Japanese in the area, and it is a trend that should take off.
Incanto: shows that neighborhood Italian places don't have to be the red sauce and checkered table-cloth type. Incanto delivers great rustic Italian food with with a refreshing whole animal bent. Cosentino manages to specialize in offal which isn't awful; it is delicious and has made this neighborhood place a destination.
Conduit: I agree with Bauer that we are seeing a trend where wine bars are adding great food to pair with the wines; bread and cheese are now so '90s. I think, however, that Conduit is a better example than Cav.
I see I've only come up with seven trend-setting places. Sigh. Seems I'm just not a trendy fellow.
Posted by Paul at May 7, 2008 10:51 AM | Food & Wine