- 1998 Hanzell Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (4/29/2008)
Dark gold color, crystal clear and gem-like. Flinty nose of ripe fruit and minerals. Medium body with layers of flavors including baked bread, and citrus, with honey on the finish. Clearly new world, but made in a very refined style. Beautiful fresh wine with elegance and complexity. (94 pts.) - 1998 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (4/29/2008)
Deep golden color, slightly cloudy indicating no filtration. Fairly reserved nose of ripe fruit and vanilla. Medium-full body, big full tropical and lime flavors with just noticeable oak. Good finish, but ultimately lacking finesse and complexity. (92 pts.)
If I didn't have the Hanzell to compare the Marcassin to, I would have thought the Marcassin was a tremendous wine. But, compared to the Hanzell, it was a pretender. I've tasted both younger and older Hanzell chards that didn't have this special complexity and elegance, so these wines clearly require both a good vintage and some aging. Young Hanzells seem thin, closed and uninteresting, but with time, they bloom. I have no doubt that I would have preferred the Marcassin had I compared the two six years ago, but it's true what they say: good things come to those who wait.
Here is a Hanzell Chardonnay vine in the Ambassador vineyard, planted in 1953.
