The Szechuan-trained English chef Fuchsia Dunlop asked (on BBC Radio Four last night) whether Asian and European cuisines could fairly be judged side-by-side: Chinese cooking being about some very different things - not least with its interest in texture.
Dunlop told how she once took three top chefs from Szechuan province to eat at the Californian shrine-restaurant Chez Panisse. They were "baffled and disturbed " by the food. "It's interesting," said one of them, "but I don't know if it's good or bad."
Aha! It's not just me! I've been tagging some posts here as "post-modern cuisine," should I be tagging Chez Panisse posts "pre-modern"?
