February 2009 Archives

POULARD MADO (Roast Chicken Mado)

Madame Marie-Louise Point, whom her husband affectionately called "Mado," is the inspiration for this recipe. When Fernand Point wrote it out in his notebook, he also wrote the following in a corner of the page: "I dedicate this dish to the most beautiful woman in the world, my wife."

Stuff a fat young roasting chicken from Bresse with truffles and roast it slowly. Make a little bit of sauce from the pan juices. Arrange the bird on a heated platter surrounded by ortolans and some slices of foie gras quickly heated in butter. Pour over the pan juices and serve with a bottle of Romanée-Conti from a happy year.

From: Ma Gastromonie by Fernand Point

The notion of terroir, which originated in France and was first applied mostly to wine, is that the special qualities of the land and climate in any given location affect and distinguish the taste and quality of the food grown on it. Potatoes can be spoken of in terms of terroir, too. A specific variety will not taste or cook up the same if it is grown in Lyon instead of the island of Norimoutier. The island's sandy soil and muck impart a special flavor. The ratte from Touquet has its devoted disciples, as does the ratte of Lyon, which is also called a "quenelle."

From The Complete Robuchon.