The notion of terroir, which originated in France and was first applied mostly to wine, is that the special qualities of the land and climate in any given location affect and distinguish the taste and quality of the food grown on it. Potatoes can be spoken of in terms of terroir, too. A specific variety will not taste or cook up the same if it is grown in Lyon instead of the island of Norimoutier. The island's sandy soil and muck impart a special flavor. The ratte from Touquet has its devoted disciples, as does the ratte of Lyon, which is also called a "quenelle."
From The Complete Robuchon.
