Short Reviews
October 26, 2004
Short Reviews: Absinthe, Aperto, Azie
About a year and a half ago, when I realized that I had eaten in more than 100 San Francisco restaurants, I started a project of writing up a series of short reviews. Unfortunately, the project stalled about six months later, after about 50 reviews. However, this Blog gives me a chance to finish in style. But first, I'll start over in order to remove the reviews of the defunct, and to fix a few mistakes I made last time.
Absinthe - Great atmosphere, I am always expecting to see Oscar Wilde and Lord Douglas sitting together in a corner booth. Very creative wine list with a good selection of half-bottles. (One night, I found a 1/2 btl of '01 Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf-du-Pape). Fries are good, Coq au Vin is good, and Seafood appetizers are a plus. Good, friendly staff. Highly recommended.
Aperto - Small and pleasant Italian café in Potrero Hill; now overshadowed by Chez Papa and his relatives. But, I ate there and had a good salad and pasta. If this restaurant were in my neighborhood, I'd be happy. Recommended.
Azie - Exquisite industrial/Asian space. Creative menu was once one of the very best in the city. I had an excellent meal here with a heirloom tomato salad, and Steamed Fish with baby bok choy, Thai chili, and scallions in Black Bean sauce, served with Jasmine rice. You can still get excellent food here, but the signs of decay seem obvious. Neither of my entrees is still on the menu. The once renowned butter-poached lobster was replaced by olive-oil poached lobster and now the lobster is gone altogether. Plus, the kitchen now closes at 9:30 on weeknights! Recommended w/downhill watch.
Posted by Paul at 10:02 AM | Comments (0)
January 01, 2006
Short Reviews: Ame
Ame, the new restaurant in the St. Regis Hotel (at 3rd and Mission) is beautiful, elegant, and serves creative and delicious food. The space is very urban, with black columns, white accents and tan walls including elegant understated decoration (except for the art-glass light fixtures which are definitely over the top, though portraying exquisite taste). I believe this place is destined to become a San Francisco classic.
The bar in the St. Regis lobby also run by the Ame staff, oozes class and will quickly become one of the in spots for unwinding after work or other bar-related activities for the well-paid, well-groomed set.
For a starter, I ordered a crudo of fluke with Meyer lemon zest, fleur de sel, and extra virgin olive oil "from Lessino olives." This was a deceptively simple dish, but it was refreshing, and delicious in the best tradition of clean unadorned flavors of both Japanese and Calfornia cuisines
The appetizer of fricassee of Miyugi oysters, leeks and forest mushrooms in sauce beurre blanc was full-flavored, incredibly rich and begged to be consumed to the last drop through discreet swabbing of the plate with the bread.
For an entrée, I had a red wine braised "Wagyu" beef cheek served with sweetbread cutlets and cauliflower puree all finished with a cabernet sauvignon sauce. Though it was excellent, it didn't have the clarity of flavors, nor the freshness of the seafood dishes. When I come back (which will be soon), I think I'll stick to seafood and skip the meat dishes.
The wine list is of moderate length with an eclectic selection, including some excellent offerings of sake. Corkage is a very reasonable $20 per bottle. Highly Recommended. Ame at the St. Regis
Posted by Paul at 06:25 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
November 07, 2004
Short Reviews: B44, Bacar, Bagdad Café
B44 (Belden Place) - The first time I visited B44, I had an interminable wait for a dried out, overcooked and remarkably unappetizing Paella. It took over two years to work up the enthusiasm to try it again. This time I ordered tapas-style with several small plates. The leg of lamb brochette was tender and spicy, and the deep fried squid with paprika allioli (Sevillanos) was just about perfect. This is also a great lunch destination when the weather is good, as you can sit outside in the sun with scores of other hungry people crowding Belden place. Recommended.
Bacar - Elegant modern space open to 1 a.m. with live jazz every night. Two hundred wines by the glass. Downstairs wine lounge. Wok-roasted mussels, Caesar salad and cheese plates are menu standouts. Recommended.
Bagdad Café - Down and out in the Castro. All-American diner food with Mexican twists available 24 hours per day. If you need something to eat at 4 a.m. this is much, much better than Denny's or a candy bar from Walgreens. (Since it isn't named "Baghdad Cafe" I wonder if somebody's father had a drinking problem, or if was named after this movie?) Recommended for what it is.
Posted by Paul at 10:07 PM | Comments (0)
November 20, 2004
Short Reviews: Biscuits and Blues
A blues club in a basement near Union Square. There are some great blues acts booked here. If you simply need to hear Lavay Smith and Her Red Hot Skillet Lickers (and if you haven't heard them already, you need to do so), there are few choices. The food is barely edible. Stick to drinks. Not recommended (for food).
Posted by Paul at 04:54 PM | Comments (0)
Short Reviews: Bistro Clovis
A French Bistro near the Civic Center and Performing Arts centers. Very French decoration, and a very French menu. I had the Duck Confit and had no complaints. I've never been back, so I wasn't overwhelmed, but it has potential, and I need to revisit. No recommendation.
Posted by Paul at 04:55 PM
Short Reviews: Bizou
Bizou is a bistro, but not a French one. If I had to choose, I’d say it’s Mediterranean, but you will find French, Californian, Italian, and Spanish influences. Bizou is constantly exploring interesting tastes and textures using classic technique. It has been in SoMa for ten years, and a good part of the professional and friendly staff has been there almost the entire time. The menu changes constantly -- reflecting seasonal produce. I tend to think of Bizou as a small scale San Francisco version of Chez Panisse. I often prefer the appetizers to the entrees, but you can't go wrong here. Highly recommended.
UPDATE: Bizou closed April 30, 2005
Posted by Paul at 05:00 PM | Comments (0)
November 25, 2004
Short Reviews: Boulevard
During the "Belle Epoch" (beautiful time) in France from 1890 to 1914 it is said that 'la joie de vivre' infused everyday life. Boulevard, located in the 1889 French-styled Audiffred Building has taken the architectural hint and constructed a time machine to give you 'la joie de vivre' for an evening. The interior has been transformed into a gorgeous echo of the French Belle Epoch, and even if you never eat here, you owe yourself a visit to look at the tile work. I didn't mind waiting for a table as I was so amazed by my surroundings. The food is even more exquisite than the room. Chef Nancy Oakes likes enumerative cooking. One dish, which arrived on an enormous bowl-like dinner plate, Roasted Pork Loin Trio, consisted of port tenderloin wrapped with prosciutto, plus braised pork cheek with a celery root / apple puree, and cured baby back ribs. A sorbet dessert consisted of three small plates on a larger rectangular plate. The three sorbets were: Mango, Rhubarb Strawberry, and Cherry. Under each sorbet was some fruit: fresh mango, strawberries, and dried cherries. The creativity and execution of the food is excellent. The wine list is outstanding, with an especially good selection of red Burgundy and California boutique wines. Highly recommended.
Posted by Paul at 01:46 PM | Comments (0)
Short Reviews: Brainwash Café and Laundromat
Yes Grandma, I had breakfast in this café, sipping caffe latte while I listened to grunge rock and tumble-dried my Levis. Food isn't as bad as you might imagine. People watching is good. No recommendation.
Posted by Paul at 01:49 PM | Comments (0)
November 27, 2004
Short Reviews: Café Bastille
Located in Belden Place, the home of Plouf, B44, Tiramisu, and other sidewalk cafes, the menu is solid French Bistro food. You will find thing like Onion Soup, Andouillette, Mussels Mariniere, Crepes and even Boudin noir. It isn't anything to write home about, and not worth a special trip, but there isn't anything wrong here either. A fun summer activity is working your way through all of the choices in this European-like alley. Recommended.
Posted by Paul at 07:19 PM | Comments (0)
Short Reviews: Café de la Presse
A newsstand/cafe catering to Europeans at the corner of Grant and Bush across the street from the French Consulate General's office. As you sit here eating, perhaps, Moule Frites (which Google translates as "mold chips") and watching people stroll through the ornate gates to Chinatown, you will realize you aren't in Kansas anymore. Not the best French Bistro food in the city, but the atmosphere can't be beat, and the menu is pure bistro comfort food. Recommended.
Posted by Paul at 09:02 PM | Comments (0)
November 30, 2004
Short Reviews: Caffe Delle Stelle
A neighborly sort of place on the corner of Hayes and Gough with big windows letting in the sunshine and the street scene. The restaurant is near the cultural venues (Symphony, Opera, Ballet) and the staff performs wonders in getting folks out on time for the show -- always keeping a smile as they hustle at this task. Remember this if you are ever late for the Symphony! It saved me! The food is predictable Italian pasta plus some good fish and meat dishes. The wine list is very reasonably priced and goes well with the simple and filling but honest food. Recommended.
Posted by Paul at 07:00 AM | Comments (0)
Short Reviews: Caffe Macaroni Sciuè Sciuè
A tiny restaurant on the edge of North Beach and the Financial District that is probably more like an Italian cafe than any other place in the city. The menu is truly amazing and has all of the classic Italian dishes you can think of. Good, cheerful service and a well-matched and extensive wine list make the whole package almost irresistible. Don't hit your head on the ceiling if they take you upstairs, and don't elbow the fellow in the next table. No matter, the food is the star. There are two Caffe Macaroni's across the street from each other (see website links). Recommended
Caffe Macaroni Sciuè Sciuè
Caffe Macaroni Website
Posted by Paul at 07:03 AM | Comments (0)
Short Reviews: Caffe Museo
SF MOMA is clean, modern, and efficient. Caffe Museo, the museum cafe, has inherited clean, modern, and efficient from the museum, and adds comforting and welcoming. They have a small but quality menu that includes a yummy Grilled Chicken Panini, Steamed Mussels, Smoked Salmon with Potato Salad and Creme Fraiche, and pizzas. The tables outside on the sidewalk are glorious on a sunny day. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 07:38 AM
December 03, 2004
Short Reviews: Canton
Cantonese outpost in SoMa serving reasonably priced dim sum and seafood classics. The room is large with simple decoration. Menu is authentic with little Americanization. Not worth a special trip but it is a good place for South Beach residents and local office workers to get good value Chinese food without having to hoof it over to Chinatown. No recommendation
Posted by Paul at 03:42 AM | Comments (0)
Short Reviews: Cesario's
A café located in the heart of tourist territory with a large continental menu; this is the kind of place that stays in business by serving a continual stream of people who eat there once and never return. Food is very mediocre, I hope the tourists either don't know enough to care or don't hold it against San Francisco. Not recommended
Posted by Paul at 03:43 AM | Comments (0)
December 07, 2004
Short Reviews: Chavo's Mexican Restaurant
Open only for lunch, Chavo's is at the corner of 4th and Bryant, across the street from the Hotel Utah. The menu offers burritos, tacos, chili and some other standards, plus the occasional special (chicken and beef tamales have been offered this winter and spring). While not outstanding, the food is good and solidly consistent. I often get a burrito here, but recently had a perfectly spiced and delicious chili colorado. The tacos are always moist and yummy. The tables on the patio are the preferred place to eat on a sunny day. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 01:43 PM | Comments (0)
Short Reviews: Chaz
A restaurant in the Marina owned by chef Charles Solomon who has decided he prefers the intimacy of a small neighborhood place to the craziness of a bigger and busier one. The night I was there, he was bartending, waiting tables, busing tables, and -- I suppose -- cooking (though I glimpsed a Hispanic line cook through the kitchen door). A lone waitress was the only other staff there. I waited a lot, was served a glass of oxidized wine, which I didn't drink, and had some sweetbreads, which were nothing special. Solomon has a reputation as a great cook, but as far as I can tell he doesn't have enough critical mass at Chaz to make a real restaurant. Perhaps I was there on an off night. I am going to be nice: No recommendation
UPDATE: Chaz closed in late 2004.
Posted by Paul at 03:55 PM | Comments (0)
December 08, 2004
Short Reviews: Chez Spencer
Fourteenth at Folsom is the approximate locus of two culinary stars. One is Rainbow Grocery where you can find an amazing collection of exotic and exciting foodstuffs (but no meat or fish!). The other is Chez Spencer which, though it is hidden in a small industrial space on a pretty gritty street, is one of the best French Restaurants in the city. The chef works from an open-hearth kitchen in the middle of the space, and live music comes from the piano near the front windows. The food is classic French, with things like roast squab, rack of lamb, foie gras, and butter, butter everywhere. When it isn't raining, you can sit on the entrance patio under some heaters. Be warned, it is expensive for a place somewhat off the beatten path. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 04:42 PM | Comments (0)
December 09, 2004
Short Reviews: Clouds
Located at the top of Yerba Buena Gardens, Clouds looks past its landscaped rooftop garden out on the city skyline, This is a place probably not visited much by San Franciscans, as it is off (and above) the beaten path. However, it is worth seeking out if you are in the area (maybe on a trip to SF MOMA), as it is a pleasant enough place, and great for lunch on a sunny day. My $8.95 lunch was "Seared Ahi Tuna with mizuna salad, crispy bean noodles, soy-sesame syrup, green onions, wasabi cream and pickled ginger" which was a good deal. This isn't a destination restaurant, though it may have the best restaurant paito in the city. Keep it in mind if you are near SF MOMA, the Metreon, or Moscone Convention Center. Recommended
UPDATE (Jan 21, 2005): I walked by Clouds on Thursday and see that the space is empty, and apparently has been empty for some time. Clouds is no more. I hope another restaurant will take over this restful and pleasant space.
UPDATE (Jun 2006):The space has been occupied by The Samovar Tea Lounge, this making the first outpost of the original in the Castro.
Posted by Paul at 05:10 AM | Comments (0)
December 11, 2004
Short Reviews: Crossroads Café
Cavernous space with a newsstand and bookstore where you can get a simple breakfast or sandwiches, salads, tapas, coffees, teas, wine and beer, soda fountain items, or smoothies. Sit on a stool at a table, lounge in an easy chair or couch, or take in the sun on the gigantic flower-filled patio as the slap of halyards on masts from the nearby South Beach Marina serenades you. A more comfortable place would be hard to imagine. The food is only okay but this is a great place to hang out. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 02:50 PM | Comments (0)
December 13, 2004
Short Reviews: Delfina
This place has such a reputation that your biggest risk in trying to eat here will be that you can't get a table, or that you will be disappointed if the food doesn't live up to the hype. If you can get beyond those two "problems," Delfina is very fine place for a meal. It is a fairly small and casual place on a side street in the Mission. In addition to the tables, there is a very small bar (2 or 3 seats) and 12-seat cafeteria-style bar with stools. The food is Cal-influenced Italian; fresh ingredients and simple preparation are the rule. They always have truffles during the season, and it is amazing what shaved white truffles will do for roast chicken or mashed potatoes. If I lived in the neighborhood, I'd eat here often. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 01:21 PM | Comments (0)
December 16, 2004
Short Reviews: Dottie's True Blue Café
Is Dottie’s famous or infamous? Why the Zagat entry? What is it about this place? Is it the Tenderloin location (Jones between Geary and O'Farrell)? The jalapeno jelly? The very long wait if you get here at the wrong time? The life-size poster of an almost au natural Josephine Baker? Or the CDs of female jazz vocalists that always seem to be playing in the background? This is a place that you are certain that Dashiel Hammet would have eaten at. Dotties has great mystique and atmosphere, but it also has really good food. This is a GREAT breakfast place. The portions are huge. Don't bother with the menu; the specials on the blackboard are where the action is. Don't miss the jalapeno cornbread or the bean cakes, or some of the special pancakes. Good place. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 04:31 PM | Comments (0)
December 19, 2004
Short Reviews: Enrico’s
Enrico's packages up the essence of a European sidewalk cafe and plops it down in North Beach -- adding some good American live jazz for localization. Most people don't go to Enrico's for the food, although it is good enough that you could make that the reason for your trip. A table outside is a great place for Sunday brunch while watching the San Francisco Grand Prix. Or, you can sit inside on a foggy evening and listen to jazz. The menu is Italian, but is also influenced by the Alice Waters revolution. You can get fried calamari, shrimp risotto or homemade lasagna, but you can also get roasted chicken, pan roasted halibut and Niman Ranch lamb sirloin. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 10:16 PM | Comments (0)
Short Reviews: Firewood Café (Metreon)
Living in the city of Saint Francis, our heritage is linked to miracles of long ago. Magically, our present also includes miracles such as the presence of good food in a movie theatre food court. Firewood Cafe has two locations in the City, the original one in the Castro, and an outpost in the Sony/Lowes Metreon. Both of them feature pizza from a wood-fired oven as well as pastas including roasted chicken and mortadella tortellini, and penne pasta in a white wine cream sauce with proscuitto and shiitake mushrooms (my two favorites). The prices are reasonable. I admit that I sometimes visit the Metreon solely to get take out from the Firewood Cafe. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 10:18 PM | Comments (0)
May 02, 2008
Short Reviews: Fish.
Set out on a pier overlooking the marina, Fish. is a casual, California kind of place. Except for the Marin County prices, and the lack of surfer dudes, it reminds me of a Southern California fish shack. There are picnic tables to sit at outside, and inside you get the same thing: picnic tables. However, unless it is raining or colder than San Francisco in the summer, you'll want to sit outside and enjoy the California sun and the view of the marina and its inhabitants. (Watch out for the hungry and highly-practiced seagulls though).
The menu is casual, sporting items like clam chowder (both red and white) shucked oysters, and a grilled fish sandwich; but it is also creative. You can also get "The Fish. Parfait" which is a parfait glass layered with Dungeness crab, salsa, tomatillo, lime crema, and cocktail sauce.
My favorite item here is "The Grilled Fish. Salad," consisting of a big bowl of organic mixed greens, croutons, carrots and cherry tomatoes topped with a choice of the day's fresh fish, grilled and deposited atop the greens. The dressing is served on the side so you can use as much or as little as you wish. Although this may set your personal record for amount spent on a salad ($20+ at my last visit), the fish will be seasonal, extremely fresh, seared—not even a bit overcooked, and perfectly seasoned with salt and cracked pepper.
Other interesting menu choices include Ceviché, a Crab Roll, a Fish. Taco plate, Fish and Chips, and a Tuscan White Bean and Tuna Salad. And then, there is the pun: a Peanut Butter and Jelly Fish. Sandwich which is a lot less interesting than you might think, but your seven-year-old will probably like it.
There is an extensive beverage list to choose from including iced tea and lemonade (continuing fish shack theme), and wine including Champagne (vamping on the Marin theme).
I like fish. I also like Fish.. Along with Sushi Ran, it's the best food in town. Highly Recommended
Fish.
350 Harbor Drive
Sausalito, California
37 52' 5" Lon -122 29' 52"
Posted by Paul at 08:37 AM | Comments (0)
December 19, 2004
Short Reviews: Fog City Diner
Well it looks a bit like a diner, but you won't find anything like this along the roadside in New Jersey (nor will you find a road like the palm tree lined Embarcadero in New Jersey). I had a feeling of deja vu when I saw this place: it reminded me of the Buckhead Diner in Atlanta, and for good reason! Pat Kuleto designed both of them. Neither, however, will remind you of Hopper's Nighthawks painting: they are "Yuppie Diners," comfortable and upscale. They have hash here, but it is "Lobster and Chicken Hash with Sweet Corn and Tomato pan sauce." They have macaroni and cheese, too, but the cheese is Gouda, and the dish includes "Hobbs Ham" and costs (at this writing) $10.75. I had the "Ahi Tuna Carpaccio with Wasabi Cream and Daikon Sprouts" and it was fine. If you eat too much and feel in need of some exercise when you are finished, the steep routes up the north side of Telegraph Hill are only a block or so away. Take a hike up the Filbert stairs and through the fabled gardens of Babylon by the Bay, and see if you can spot any of the mysterious and shy green parrots. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 10:32 PM | Comments (0)
December 17, 2004
Short Reviews: Fringale
French/Basque bistro in SoMa with remarkably consistent high-quality, delicious food and reasonable prices. It is here that I learned the secret of long life and happiness. Start your meal with poached Foie Gras and a glass of Port or Sauternes; end the meal with Crème Brule into which some Grand Marnier has been poured after cracking the caramelized crust. Punctuate those meal ends with a Basque Seafood Stew featuring a luscious roasted red pepper sauce and a glass of red Burgundy wine. Well, maybe I got the long life part wrong, but this will certainly make you happy! Great staff. Highly recommended.
UPDATE: Fringale has changed ownership as of July, 2005 -- retaining the current staff and concept.
Posted by Paul at 11:32 PM | Comments (0)
December 21, 2004
Short Reviews: Garden Court
In 1875 this space was a driveway used as the carriage entrance to the brand new Palace Hotel. After the 1906 earthquake, the space was enclosed with a Victorian glass ceiling and transformed into the Garden Court. It is quite simply the most stunningly beautiful public room in San Francisco, and has seen a few grand events in its time. In true utopian San Francisco fashion, official events in 1919 and 1945 honored the Versailles Treaty and the founding of the United Nations. It is an amazing space with gilded marble columns, crystal chandeliers, mirrored doors, potted palms and the incredible stained glass ceiling. Oh yes, the food. Well, food isn't the point. It isn't bad, but it isn't especially scrumptious and delicious either. A Sunday Brunch Buffet is always packed as is Saturday Afternoon Tea. Lunch and breakfast are also served. If you go to the Brunch (and you should -once- especially if relatives are visiting) make certain to get a reservation, and for God's sake, dress up! Recommended.
Posted by Paul at 11:27 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
December 27, 2004
Short Reviews: Grand Café
When you are seated in the former ballroom of the Monaco Hotel you can marvel at the 25' ceiling and imagine a chamber orchestra playing on the balcony, Just don't look at things too hard, as the details in the room are a bit jarring. I couldn't quite figure out what all of the rabbits were about; the wood is clearly 1/8" veneered paneling; and the gigantic amber-glass chandeliers look cheap (plastic?) and out of proportion. However, none of this matters, because the food here is good. A new chef took over in the spring of 2002 and made a big improvement. (As of last 2004 he has just left).
Out front by the bar, there is a "Petite Cafe" (get it?) with an abbreviated menu, which is really outstanding when you need a pick me up after the theater or an especially stressful day at Saks Fifth Avenue. And for dinner, walk back to the "Grand Cafe" and partake of some expertly prepared food from the surprisingly modest selection of dishes on the large (11" x 17") menu. (Modest menus are a good thing in my restaurant universe. No place with an affordable staff can really prepare 100 dishes to top-notch quality). I can personally vouch for the quality of the warm wild mushroom tart with black truffle sabayon, as well as the warm asparagus with sauce gribiche and parmesan. For entrees, try the lamb loin with a mint & mustard crust (!), or the duck breast with braised endive, a port reduction and brandied cherries. (Sabayon: aka. zabaglione, a whipped sauce made from egg yolks, wine and sugar. Gribiche: a sauce made from hard boiled eggs, vinegar, oil, cornichons and herbs.) Grand Cafe also features a daily Plat du Jour each of which is solid French Bistro food. (Examples: Monday, Sole Meuniere, Wednesdays, Blanquette de Veau, Friday, Bouillabaisse). Recommended
Posted by Paul at 04:28 PM | Comments (0)
Short Reviews: Great Eastern
A venerable (opened in 1986) two-floor Cantonese seafood palace located on Jackson Street in Chinatown and open until 1 a.m. In the classic Hong Kong manner, tanks along the back wall are filled with live seafood. Check out the price per pound of your favorite specie, point to your swimming meal of choice and be eating it minutes later. That is fresh seafood. Although the critics and the city's concierge contingent wax poetic about Great Eastern, my experiences here have been mostly unimpressive (including one case of food poisoning). No recommendation
Posted by Paul at 04:31 PM | Comments (0)
December 31, 2004
Short Reviews: Harbor Village
Somewhat hidden off the beaten path on the second floor of 4 Embarcadero Center, this is the definitely upscale California branch of a highly regarded Hong Kong restaurant chain. The room is gorgeously decorated and elegant with large windows looking out over the Embarcadero and the bay. Although prices are high and service complaints are not unknown, the food here is excellent. This is good choice for showing visiting out-of-towners upscale dim sum. The dinner menu has an extensive selection of classic Cantonese dishes. Recommended.
UPDATE: Sadly, Harbor Village closed after service on August 28th, 2005. Here is my report on my last dim sum lunch there.
Posted by Paul at 09:54 PM | Comments (0)
January 04, 2005
Short Reviews: Hawthorne Lane
An elegant and sleek upscale restaurant in SoMa that serves amazingly good American gourmet cuisine with the occasional Asian influence. There are two rooms, one with a gorgeous curving polished cherry wood bar and cafe-like booths, and a more refined dining room sporting an open kitchen. The food is good enough to make you drop your fork as your eyes widen in surprise and the corners of your mouth curl up in pleasure. There are deep, yet refined flavors, and the dishes are carefully created with contrasting textures. Although this is a very expensive place, there is a $30 chefs three-course tasting menu that is a bargain. A recent example featured "Potato leek soup with asparagus relish and pistachio drizzle", plus a "Grilled pork chop with sweet corn and fava bean succotash trumpet mushrooms and foie gras sauce." Recommended
Update: Hawthorne Lane closed early in 2007 and reopened as Two.
Posted by Paul at 07:10 PM | Comments (0)
January 08, 2005
Short Reviews: Helmand
For a long time, San Franciscos Afghani restaurant was owned "anonymously" by Mahmoud Karzai; now his brother, Hamid Karzai, is the head of Afghan government and this place isn't so invisible. Even when it was relatively unknown, Helmand made this somewhat seedy section of Broadway worth visiting. Afghani food is related to Moguli and Persian food, but is a bit less spicy than Indian, and a bit less exotic than Persian (no pomegranates, as far as I know). The lamb dishes here are fantastic and you will have your choice of interesting differently spiced yogurt sauces and great flat breads. The service is helpful and friendly. The prices are so reasonable you will think you are eating in a Persian bazaar, but the food is so good, you will be certain that the chef is descended from Alexander the Great's chef. Recommended.
Posted by Paul at 06:35 PM | Comments (0)
January 04, 2005
Short Reviews: Henry's Hunan
This local chain of four temples to Hunan cuisine occupies digs varying from the seedy diner ambiance of the SoMa/Bryant location to the sleek and gargantuan lunch palace on Natoma at 2nd. These unpretentious restaurants often show up on lists of the 10-best Chinese places in the city, as well they should. The food is spicy, tasty, and a bracing change from the tamer Cantonese fare offered at so many other places. Make certain to try out the house specials, including Smoked Ham with String Beans and Diana's Meat Pie, Onion Cake, and Dumplings. Highly Recommended
Posted by Paul at 07:12 PM | Comments (0)
September 27, 2005
Short Reviews: Hog Island Oyster Bar
Some place has to be the best place for raw oysters in the city. To my tastes, the oyster bar in the Ferry Building run by the Hog Island Oyster Co. is it.
I wouldn't call the space beautiful, but since one of the walls is twenty feet high, made out of glass, and looks out on the bay, it certainly is bright and cheery! There is a wrap-around marble bar with about 15 seats, some inside tables seating perhaps 12 more, and a good collection of tables outside which are really nice on a sunny day.
The menu is small, and in addition to the raw oysters, it offers a few cooked oyster and clam dishes as well as a grilled cheese sandwich. The traditional oyster stew is fresh and rich and great for a rainy day. The clam chowder is a bit nouveau cuisine for some folks being more of an exotic soup (with Manila clams, bacon, cream, aromatic vegetables and thyme) than a true Manhattan or Boston chowder. As for the sandwich, it is billed as a Cowgirl Creamery Grilled Cheese Sandwich - with Fromage Blanc, Mezzo Secco and Cave Aged Gruyere served with pickled vegetables. It comes on delicious and enormous slices of toasted Acme bread and it is the biggest and richest grilled cheese sandwich I can imagine. If you've ever wanted to O.D. on a grilled cheese sandwich, start here.
The reminder of the menu consists of Oysters with Beurre Blanc, Oysters Rockefeller, Oysters Casino, Manila Clams (with chorizo sausage and white beans), a Mixed Green Salad, and an Arugula salad.
But eating any of these items, delicious though they may be, is like going to Paris to study Italian. The reason one comes to the Hog Island Oyster bar is to eat raw oysters on the half shell. There is no doubt that the oysters are fresh. You can watch the shuckers working, and note that they throw away about one in ten - proving that quality counts. You can order 6, 12, or 24 oysters, either all one species or mixed. The best deal is what they call the RAW DEAL: 1 dozen Sweetwater Oysters with a glass of Muscadet (see photo). The oysters are cold and sweet and taste of fresh air at the beach with the ocean spray splashing in your face. Let an oyster slide seductively into your mouth, take a sip of wine, look out at the view and enjoy life. It rarely gets better than this. Highly Recommended
As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank the cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and make plans.
il faut d'abord durer
Hemingway – A Moveable Feast
Posted by Paul at 03:53 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
January 08, 2005
Short Reviews: India Garden
Located on Folsom near 9th, India Garden has a surprisingly relaxing and pretty patio (no doubt the garden in the name), good decor and an extensive menu promisingly filled with classic Moguli (Northern Indian) dishes. All it lacks is good food. My meal here was severely mediocre. Perhaps this is proof of the old adage to avoid places with big menus. Not recommended.
Posted by Paul at 06:34 PM | Comments (0)
January 11, 2005
Short Reviews: Ino Sushi
If Ino Sushi were anywhere else it would be a "hole in the wall" kind of place, but since it is on the second floor of the Miyako building in the Japantown Center, it is a "hole in the mall!" It is a real Mom and Pop place with only six seats at the bar and three tables. The owner, Ino-san, is clearly a sushi master and presents his clients with only the freshest and most appetizing offerings. This is traditional sushi, you will find few (if any) trendy things here, but you will find a very nice ankimo (monkfish liver) nigiri sushi and an excellent well-priced sake list. It is not cheap, but the prices are reasonable for the quality. Recommended
UPDATE: Ino Sushi is in the Japan Center in Japantown next to Takara on the upper level of the Miyako Mall.
Ino Sushi
22 Peace Plz Ste 510
San Francisco, CA
(415) 922-3121
Here is an out-of-date but non-the-less useful map of the area.
Posted by Paul at 08:17 AM | Comments (0)
January 16, 2005
Short Reviews: Kate's Kitchen
If Rainbow Grocery had a restaurant it would be just like Kate's Kitchen, but without the breakfast meat. The staff looks the same; it has the murals and granola as well as fruit plates and interesting combinations like cornmeal buttermilk pancakes. Portions are large, and, on weekends, the line in front of the lower Haight location is a long one. Cash only. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 08:09 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Short Reviews: Kyo-ya
Ikebana on perfect black lacquered table; sushi like butter. Grated wasabi, Formal Kaiseki Banquet; cherry blossom food. Bring money. Highly Recommended
Posted by Paul at 08:10 PM | Comments (0)
January 22, 2005
Short Reviews: L'Osteria del Forno
My handy Internet "Language Tool" translates this as "The Tavern of the Furnace." I suspect a better translation might be the Café with the Oven. If they cook it here, they do it in the oven. There is no stove, and because this tiny neighborhood place only has 28 seats, no stove means more tables; and, more tables means less wait, but you will probably have to waitn standing on the sidewalk for 20 to 40 minutes anyway.
"Hold on," you say. "How can this be a neighborhood place? It’s on COLUMBUS AVENUE!"
It’s a neighborhood place because while I was waiting on the sidewalk, I met an 80-year-old lady who has eaten dinner there over 500 times. I suspect she is a good friend of the two Italian ladies (from Varese and Bologna) who own the L'Osteria del Forno. I also met someone from Telegraph Hill who was writing a book on parrots (green and living in San Francisco, I think. The parrots). And it isn’t that I’m particularly extroverted, these tables are close together.
I had SPIEDINO DI AGNELLO (Skewered lamb marinated in ginger, rosemary, and garlic with roasted potatoes and mixed salad), which was okay, but not up to what I was expecting given the reputation this place has. Perhaps the thin-crust pizzas or foccine (focaccia sandwiches), or the pork roasted in milk with potatoes would have been a better choice. When I go back, I’ll try one of those. No recommendation
Posted by Paul at 02:25 PM | Comments (0)
January 16, 2005
Short Reviews: La Taqueria
If you like really good carnitas and appreciate super fresh and delicious Agua Frescas and don't mind (or prefer) burritos minus the rice - this is your place. The ingredients are fresh and the resulting food is top notch. They have carne asada (beef), carnitas (pork), lengua (beef tongue), cebeza (head), pollo (chicken), and veggie. The Agua Frescas here are really good. There is so much fruit you can eat them with a spoon; phooey on you if you order a Coke. Recommended
2889 Mission Street @ 25th, San Francisco
Posted by Paul at 08:14 PM | Comments (0)
January 18, 2005
Short Reviews: Le Charm French Bistro
This restaurant is another proverbial jewel hidden in plain sight on a really yucky street (5th about 1/4 block from Folsom towards Harrison). Le Charm is notable for having a charming trellised patio, solid French Bistro food, and a continual Prix Fixe $25 dinner menu that has to be one of the great bargains in San Francisco. The menu has exactly what you would expect: French Onion Soup, Seamed Mussels, Duck Confit, Cassoulet, Grilled Steak with Pommes Frites, & etc. Recommended
Le Charm Website
Posted by Paul at 09:24 PM | Comments (0)
Short Reviews: Los Jarritos
Traveling along dreary stretches of Mission neighborhood sidewalk, you suddenly come upon an oasis at 20th and South Van Ness where the sidewalks are spotless, there are sheltering trees, and a few outdoor tables proclaim that you are at a place of rest and refreshment. You have arrived at a clean well-lighted place with many small jars and many delicious things. Los Jarritos servers a wide variety of well-prepared Mexican dishes from 8 a.m. until 10 p.m seven days a week. Breakfasts include Huevos Rancheros and Huevos Machaca (eggs with spicy dried chopped beef). Lunch and dinner offerings include the obvious tacos and burritos as well as Pollo en Mole, Quesadillas, and Posole. There are special soups each day; and on weekends you will find burria (BBQ goat soup) and menudo (tripe soup). The staff is friendly and efficient, and prices are extremely reasonable. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 09:37 PM | Comments (0)
January 26, 2005
Short Reviews: Louie's California Chinese Cuisine
Located across from the Holiday Inn, and just down the street from Portsmouth Square, Louies is off the beaten path in a building that used to house a Japanese restaurant. A Louies experience takes a little getting used to. Althoughthe standard Cantonese restaurant fish tanks greet you, the space is broken up like a split-level ranch house, with a balcony and basement next to the center section on street level.
The center section is broken into a number of banquet rooms separated by shoji screens (old Japanese restaurant, remember?). Because of the stairs there arent any carts. If you come here for dim sum, you have to order off of the menu, instead of inspecting the carts that (dont) go by. And if all of that isnt strange enough, here is a place that has "Louies California" in its name, and it is one of the three or four best Chinese restaurants in San Francisco. Perhaps the food at Koi Palace is a bit better, but Louies isnt as crowded as a zoo, and the staff tries to make you happy. Some places (which shall remain nameless) are resting on their laurels, but Louies is new and doesnt have enough laurels yet for even a catnap. I had some Fried Rice here (seasoned with dried scallops and ginger juice) that is one of the best dishes Ive ever had in a Chinese restaurant. The sautéed vegetables are stir fried with garlic and served al dente. Ive also had outstanding E-Fu noodles with soy sauce, and some superb fried whole soft-shell crab. I think it would be hard to go wrong here no matter what you order. The staff is professional and eager to please. Although they serve serious Chinese food, they arent condescending, and they want to help any round eyes that havent quite got the hang of Chinese food yet. Highly Recommended
Posted by Paul at 05:16 PM | Comments (0)
February 08, 2005
Short Reviews: Maki
Small, elegant, and approaching perfection like a Faberge Egg or a tiny intricately carved wooden box, Maki serves authentic and delicious Japanese cuisine - no California Rolls here! The official menu is limited, but the list of daily specials is always large, so be certain to ask. They have a good selection of high quality cold sake (served in a small 175mm decanter with an ice-filled insert and decorated with an orchid blossom) and the luxurious lacquer-ware and other implements will make you feel like a Japanese Emperor. Try the Wappa-meshi dishes (like a simple steamed Chirashi) and the savory custard (chawan mushi) - even the miso soup is special (white miso, high quality ingredients, and unlike any miso soup youve had before). Not cheap, but absolutely worth every penny. Highly recommended
Posted by Paul at 04:18 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
August 28, 2005
Short Reviews: Mama's on Washington Square
As far as I can tell people stand in a long line for a long time for one of two reasons: 1) they are at a government facility and they are told to stand there, or 2) they know there is something really good waiting when then finally get to the front. The line at Mama's for weekend brunch is obviously a type #2 line. It looks incredibly long and it is undoubtedly worse than the line at Dottie's True Blue Cafe. But, once you get inside, you will be greeted by a bright sunny room with jazz playing in the background and an impressive list of breakfast items to choose from.
Besides the standard menu, there is a blackboard with the day's specials. They have every type of omelette (m'omelettes), French toast, pancake, florentine, and benedict that the mind of man can invent. It may be hard to choose between the cinnamon, butter, apples, maple syrup, cranberries, oranges, walnuts, pecans, kugelpuph, baguettes, brioche, & etc. but it really doesn't matter, as far as I can tell, it is all good.
If you can't deal with the lines, come back for lunch and order breakfast—it is served all day. If you are stuck in the line without a book, have your significant other save your place and walk across the street to the Liguria Bakery which has been making incredibly tasty focaccia since 1911. Buy some for later (I recommend the "pizza").
Some folks grumble that the popularity of Mama's allows them to overcharge but the complainers are in a definite minority, and perhaps those folks dispensing sour grapes are the ones who gave up before getting to the door. Patience. Recommended
1701 Stockton St at Fillbert / Open Tuesday through Sunday, 8am until 3pm / Cash only.
Posted by Paul at 05:03 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
December 27, 2004
Short Reviews: Oola
Driving up Folsom late in the evening, you see the valet stand and wonder why an auto-body repair place would be open at 11 p.m. and why they have valet parking. But then you look closer and see the “Oola Restaurant & Bar” sign atop the two-story high metal door and it becomes clear that you have found the newest SoMa late-night grazing spot.
Inside, you will find a long, narrow, tall space with bare brick walls. A bar with white leather stools commands the left, and watches over the booths against the right wall and in the back. A balcony with more tables sits at the back, above the kitchen. The space was once used as an elevator-repair shop, and the remodel has not entirely erased this industrial heritage. However, the grittiness is offset by a very friendly and accommodating black-clad staff and some terrific comfort-food.
San Francisco closes up surprisingly early for a world-class town, and Oola, which serves until midnight during the week and until 1 a.m on the weekend is a welcome addition to the late night dining scene. The food is way too good to be bar grub. The Caesar Salad was crisp, well-dressed with a lemon-achovy dressing and adorned with some marinated Spanish white anchovies. The “all natural” baby back ribs with cilantro ginger and soy sauce glaze with a red cabbage-apple slaw is outstanding. It is tangy and sweet and crispy at the same time and so tender and expertly-cooked that the meat falls off the bone if you glare at it. Don’t miss these. Recommended
Posted by Paul at 03:53 PM | Comments (0)
September 04, 2005
Short Reviews: Tadich Grill
Everyone has heard of the Mark Twain quip about "The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco," so perhaps it is appropriate a place once named The Cold Day Restaurant is now as much a part of the city as the fog. The Tadich Grill —like the cable cars, the Ferry Building and the Golden Gate Bridge— is a part of the landscape. Certainly it doesn't hurt that it predates all of the other landmarks, dating from 1849. And, there is no doubt that it is a good place for a meal on a cold, foggy day. It exudes proper and upright stolidity like a paneled library, which it somewhat resembles.
When I first moved to San Francisco, I used eat lunch here every Saturday, perched on a stool at the long wooden bar with my hat and coat hung up behind me on the polished wood panels. The waiters, dressed in white linen jackets, are professionals and they are efficient without being familiar. Rumor has it that this was one of the last places you could find leather cups full of dice on the bar. A throw of the dice was used to determine who would pay for the meal. But even though I haven't seen them myself, it doesn't take much imagination to pretend that they are there in front of every other seat. I even met a Republican here once. I am not certain who was more surprised, me to find myself seated next to a Republican, or him to also find himself seated next to a Republican.
Unfortunately, the food also seems to be historic. It's solid food: fish, boiled vegetables, fried potatoes and optional sauces. Except for the sauces you probably got food like this at home if you are old enough. On my most recent visit, I ordered Sand Dabs — floured, sautéed to a crisp, deboned, and served with a wedge of lemon. Even though they were a first time order, they were strangely familiar; satisflying but unexciting.
I find I no longer eat here often. To be honest, I guess I don't enjoy the food that much and don't like paying $30 for lunch (side salad, sand dabs, and a glass of Pinot Grigo). Eating at the Tadich Grill is like being bathed in the glow of a an emanation of a penumbra from a long-ago San Francisco. It's comforting to be surrounded by softly polished wood instead of blank concrete, and it seems right for the waiters to be wearing white linen instead of black turtlenecks, but it makes you long —just a bit— for a roasted beet and goat cheese salad. Recommended
The following pictures (Bloggers hat on wall, counter and kitchen, sand dabs, and menu) are all clickable for larger versions, except for the menu which will produce a 1.2Mb PDF version of the four-page Tadich Grill menu.
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Posted by Paul at 12:20 PM
November 20, 2004
Short Reviews: The Big Four
An elegant, formal restaurant in the top-notch formal Huntington Hotel atop Nob Hill. If the Tadich Grill is rough-and-tumble old San Francisco, this is railroad robber baron old San Francisco. Great polished wood paneling, formal service, and good wine list. Get your meat and potatoes (with truffle oil) here. Extra credit to anyone who knows "The Big Four". Recommended.
Posted by Paul at 04:53 PM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
September 02, 2007
Short Reviews: The Slanted Door
The Slanted Door has been tremendously successful, and provides San Francisco with its own Horatio Alger story, as Charles Phan and his family left Vietnam as part of the exodus of boat-people in 1975. The original restaurant opened in the Mission in 1995, moved to larger quarters in SoMA in 2002, and moved into the Ferry Building when its restoration was completed in 2004. Slanted Door is now number 61 on the list of the Top 100 Independent Restaurants, serving over 275,000 meals per year and taking in more than $12 million.
Surprisingly, in San Francisco food circles, The Slanted Door is somewhat controversial (see below). I've never regarded Charlie Phan as the Vietnamese Thomas Keller, but I've always enjoyed my meals at his restaurant including visits to the Brannan and Embarcadero location as well as the current incarnation. I was there Saturday evening in a party of four and we tried:
- crispy imperial rolls with shrimp, pork, glass noodles and peanuts
- one dozen oysters (Luna, Fanny Bay, Marin Miyagi)
- Japanese yellowtail with fried shallot and thai basil
- local king salmon belly with cucumber-dill relish
- manila clams with thai basil, crispy pork belly and fresh chilies
- baby Mediterranean Pulpo with shishito peppers and lime-cilantro sauce
- mesquite grilled local King salmon with roasted garlic soy dipping sauce
- Meyer Ranch shaking beef cubed filet mignon with garlic, watercress and red onions (x2)
- Hodo Soy Beanery organic lemongrass tofu (spicy) with fresh shiitake mushrooms, onions and chili sauce
- Catalan Farm sweet corn with green onions and golden chanterelle mushrooms
This is clearly California-style Alice Waters influenced Vietnamese food with an emphasis on fresh top-quality ingredients. But that's fine with me. Although some folks are annoyed that this isn't "authentic" vietnamese, and others are in a huff that the prices are higher now than when Slanted Door was in the Mission, neither complaint seems fair. The food at Slanted Door has always been ingredient-driven, and, just between you and me, I'll bet the rent is higher in the Ferry Building than it was in the Mission.
Everything was quite good to excellent, though the the salmon-belly was a bit less interesting than the other dishes. My favorites were the Japanese yellowtail with fried shallot & thai basil, and the manila clams with crispy pork belly and a delicious sauce which made us ask for extra spoons so we could finish it off.
We bought a bottle of 2005 Prager Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Weissenkirchener Zwerithaler off the list ($70) which was a deep gold color from some botrytis though perfectly dry with 13.5% alcohol. It went very well with raw bar selections and the spring rolls. We also brought along a 2001 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, a 1969 Lionel J. Bruck Savigny )a mite tire), and a 2004 Schwarz Zweigelt 'W' Red Table Wine (Manfred Krankel of SQN is a consultant on this project; "do you like oak?")
And then, since the night was still young, we went for desserts (2) with wine at Coi, and drinks at Bix (by which time the night was middleaged and it was time for this middleaged group to beat it on home). Recommended
1 Ferry Building
San Francisco, CA
415.861.8032
Posted by Paul at 12:05 PM | Comments (0)
March 12, 2008
Short Reviews: WD-50
Note: My meal here was two years ago. Although Frank Bruni in a recent New York Times review agreed somewhat with my opinion, saying that "many visitors to the restaurant understandably feel that what they’ve experienced isn’t so much a meal as a prank," he now says that the food at WD-50 has moved towards emphasizing providing dining pleasure above simply showing off: The Shape of Eggs Benedict to Come. If true, this is certainly a welcome development.
Posted by Paul at 07:55 AM | Comments (0)
January 07, 2008
Short Reviews: bacar (update)
I liked the original bacar. They served food until 1:00 a.m., they had live jazz every night, a fantastic wine list, 100's of wines by the glass, and the staff was professional and attired in white tuxedo jackets. I spent many a night sitting at the bar eating cesar salad, and wok roasted mussels while sipping a glass of wine and listening to the live band. Unfortunately, the black-attired wealthy didn't show up in the expected numbers and things started going downhill. The tuxes went, the food preparation got sloppy, the wine list dumbed down, and the kitchen closing time kept creeping earlier (I went over there at 9:30 a few months before the shakeup and the kitchen was already closed that night).
Then, earlier in 2007, there was a shake up. Debbie Zachareas (wine) and Arnold Eric Wong (food) left. The restaurant got a new chef, and closed for remodeling to make it quieter (the kitchen was enclosed and the jazz moved downstairs). So now that it's been open for a few months, hows the new bacar?
I've only been once, but my take is that it is better and still evolving. On my visit, I decided to "go for broke" and ordered the chefs tasting menu ($69). This is what I was served:
Prosciutto Wrapped Pacific Prawns
Tomato Gazpacho & Avocado Salad
Wild Alaskan Salmon
Brentwood Corn Puree, Melon & Lobster, Curry Emulsion
Sonoma Quail
Local Chanterelle Mushrooms, Peach Conserva, Toasted Walnuts & Foie Gras Crostini
Mesquite Grilled Prime Ribeye
Heirloom Tomato Salad, Potato Puree & Nicoise Olive-Truffle Jus
Chef's Selection of Artisanal Cheese
Honey-Yogurt Sorbet
Cinnamon Waffle & Blackberry Compote
I thought the food was quite good. I was especially happy with the salmon and quail courses, but overall it was well worth the money. There were some long pauses between the courses, and the service isn't up to the standard that it needs to be, but these folks are _trying_ and I'm betting they are going to get better. Some friends visited, when the French wines were 1/2 price, and they also came away very favorably impressed with the food.
Not everything is perfect though- it's just as loud as it used to be even with the enclosed kitchen and moving the band, but I'm willing to start visiting again and see how things progress.
Posted by Paul at 06:25 AM | Comments (0)