If you are wondering "What is a Star Maiden and why should I care?" take a look at my post here on the Star Maiden and Audrey Munson, the beautiful young model who posed for this work and so many others. Even though there were at least 95 Star Maidens created for the Pan Pacific Exhibition in 1915, prior to this auction, the only way to see one was to journey to the Oakland Museum. I suppose no one knows how many of these sculptures are still in existence, but it's clearly a small enough number that if you want to see one, you should go to this auction.

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away. Antoine de Saint-Exupery

I tasted a piece before buying a bunch and can report that agretti is a bit tart (sour), quite crunchy and tends to have a mild salty taste even when watered with POW. Young enough, it can be used raw as a salad green, but more normally it is trimmed from the root, and then blanched for 10 minutes before being incorporated into salads or used as a side vegetable. Also, from personal experience, I can attest to the importance of trimming away all of the light green bottom stalk, as it is woody and tough. The dark green needles are the delectable part.

Here is a nutritional breakdown in Italian, here's a recipe for a Fritatta with Agretti, and here is a link to the Mariquita Farm's Agretti page which is full of links and recipes including this priceless observation:

.... It was really tasty (though the kids thought I made pine needle salad)!

The charge is certainly sensational, and it will probably help sell copies of his book, but it doesn't appear to be entirely responsible. Santamaria is primarily complaining about E461 or methylcellulose. This is an interesting chemical that gels at high temperature and melts at low temperatures. This makes it possible to use in making hot ice cream. (Yummy). It is also used as a laxative when enough of it is ingested, but I'm not sure that makes it a health risk; especially as "like cellulose, it is not digestible, not toxic, and not allergenic." In fact, it appears to be a harmless, widely used food additive, and Sr. Santamaria appears to be blowing smoke.

Coi: the next step beyond the Chez Panisse straight jacket, Coi uses and showcases top quality local ingredients, but adds that extra touch - cooking with technique. Coi is the only Bay Area restaurant I know of that offers only a tasting menu. The food incorporates some modern molecular techniques, but never to the detriment of gustatory pleasure. Let's call it 'mainstream' molecular cooking.

Set out on a pier overlooking the marina, Fish. is a casual, California kind of place. Except for the Marin County prices, and the lack of surfer dudes, it reminds me of a Southern California fish shack. There are picnic tables to sit at outside, and inside you get the same thing: picnic tables. However, unless it is raining or colder than San Francisco in the summer, you'll want to sit outside and enjoy the California sun and the view of the marina and its inhabitants. (Watch out for the hungry and highly-practiced seagulls though).

The menu is casual, sporting items like clam chowder (both red and white) shucked oysters, and a grilled fish sandwich; but it is also creative. You can also get "The Fish. Parfait" which is a parfait glass layered with Dungeness crab, salsa, tomatillo, lime crema, and cocktail sauce.

1997 Ridge Lytton Springs - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley (4/30/2008)
From a 375ml bottle. Deep brick red color with some lightening at the rim. Clean expressive nose of plums and spice. Palate shows beautiful smooth fruit, acid, and integrated tannins with everything in perfect harmonious balance. A beautiful mouthful of wine at absolute peak right now. This is the kind of wine that makes everything all right with the world. The best Ridge Zins have a restrained elegance that reminds you of a four-star hotel... just like top quality aged Bordeaux. Excellent. (93 pts.)

• 1998 Hanzell Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley (4/29/2008)
  Dark gold color, crystal clear and gem-like. Flinty nose of ripe fruit and minerals. Medium body with layers of flavors including baked bread, and citrus, with honey on the finish. Clearly new world, but made in a very refined style. Beautiful fresh wine with elegance and complexity. (94 pts.)
• 1998 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (4/29/2008)
  Deep golden color, slightly cloudy indicating no filtration. Fairly reserved nose of ripe fruit and vanilla. Medium-full body, big full tropical and lime flavors with just noticeable oak. Good finish, but ultimately lacking finesse and complexity. (92 pts.)

Alas, I almost never visit the new incarnation, having eaten there only three times in the past three years. The food is good, and there's really no logical reason not to eat there, so it must be illogical. It must be emotional. I miss the staff and the environment, I miss the good times, and the food that was Bizou. The picture is of a pork belly dish served the last night Bizou was open for business. (click on the pic for a larger version). I remember it was delicious.

For 3 to 4 servings:

I was fortunate enough to attend Sunday evening. My dinner proceeded as follows:

Three Amuse bouche:

Garden barbajuans (beet greens, chard, chrysanthemum…) - small pastry filled with creamed (though I don't think there was any cream involved) garden greens.

Shot of shallot cream, Granny Smith apple, & 'sode de dulse' - an 'Arpege Egg' substitute with layered ingredients/flavors, with rich and salty tastes and contrasting textures.

Oyster with kohlrabi choucroute, champagne vinegar - an oyster shell filled with shredded pickled kohlrabi, topped with a raw oyster and covered with a champagne vinegar foam. Yummy!

The early morning crowd can get a 'citoyen croissant' as well as a fresh fruit scone, pain au chocolat, ham and cheese croissant, and a cinnamon roll. Other offerings include cookies, including a signature chocolate chip version, german chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin, chocolate espresso, and ginger molasses. Vanilla and chocolate cupcakes are always available, with additional chef's choice flavors as the muse dictates.

I've tried an espresso and a cappuccino. The espresso had little crema and was too cool, and the cappuccino had too much milk and also wasn't hot enough. I'm hoping that these are teething problems. I think they'll eventually get it, and the pastries are certainly a lot better than what you can get at Starbucks.

Orson Kiosk
508 4th Street (at Bryant)
San Francisco, CA 94107

Postscript: My review of Orson - the restaurant is here. It is from a visit on opening night. I've visited a few times since then and will be posting further thoughts later. Enough later so that it doesn't look like I'm the Orson PR agency!! :-).

Update: A recent cappuccino (in the afternoon) was much better. There was less milk, making it a cappuccino instead of a latte, and the temperature was better. I do believe they are getting the hang of it.